First, We Feast {Russian House}

Words by Jessi Devenyns Photos by Shelby Bella

“In the Soviet Union, they tried not to make something specific to a place. Everything is common,” explains assistant manager David Rand. Russian House specializes in the dishes from this period with chicken tabaka, borsch, sauerkraut, and salad olivier making appearances on the menu. David admits that although “old food isn’t always cool,” it is an integral part of the history of the ex-Soviet countries, and a delicious one at that. With its fuchsia broth and focus on beets, borsch is an instantly recognizable dish from the region, but David says no two are made the same.

At Russian House, the soup features tomatoes and sliced beets married in a beef broth. It is also served with beef pirozhki. Of course, the pirozhki can sop up the soup, but it is also a perfect vehicle with which to sample Russia’s most famous condiment: sour cream. “Sour cream is a very, very important part of Russian cuisine,” explains David who lists a myriad of uses including a thickener for borsch and an optimal spread for bread with a sprinkle of sugar. It is not, however, necessary on the chicken tabaka. That dish is an artistically layered presentation of bright fruits and vegetables surrounding a whole chicken pan fried in its own juices. Marinated in white wine and tomato sauce, it comes with what David calls a “Russian salsa,” which is a spicy tomato-based condiment that pairs perfectly with the sweetness of the white wine-marinated poultry.

Naturally, everything at the Russian House is washed down with vodka. From the free shot that arrives with your appetizer to the dozens of house made infusions that line the shelves, the perfect pairing is guaranteed for every dish.

Contact
307 E 5th St.
(512) 428-5442
russianhouseofaustin.com